So show season has got off to a rather impressive start in New York. The mamoth run of NY shows provided some realy beautiful and wearable clothes for women to own. A feeling of minimilisim that began last season has proggresed through from last season. Many Labels began with a consession of around 3 to 4 white exits. It would seem that if you want to put some money towards something in february or march when the new season offerings go on sale I would be thinking of a white dress. Realitive newcomer Joseph Altuzarra slashed into his white looks with tips of fluro yellow and python skin giving a sort of french chic tribal feel , Whilst Fransisco Costa at Calvin Klein gave us perhaps the most desirable form fitting and heavinly proportioned white dress's. Costa is clearly reveling in the return to simplistic modernisim that he practices at Calvin Klien season through season.
Other areas to note were the limited colour palettes that were shown at Preen and Philip Lim. Both shows I completely fell in love with. Time and Time again both labels show desirable and wearable clothes but never loose intrest. Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi of Preen evolved the story that began last season deconstructing this masculine femminie thing which I love and would be bang into if I was in the market for some realy sexy cool clothes next summer. Whilst Lim may not be pushing boundaries with his designs the overall Lim look and price point of his collections makes him one of the NY biggest exports. The construction and hints of incredible blue through the show made is cool as hell.
Wang Wang Wang .. another season another gang of beastly cool girls. This time they were out in force in painterly swooshy easy shapes that had a serious martial arts geisha feel. The licks of white paint in the knoted her were seriously cool ( although I couldnt help feeling super sorry for the models having to claw that stuff out afterwards) The shoes were insane as aslways sort of cut - away heeled boots in shades that matched the clothes. Speaking of colour palette his mint greens , peachy pinks and lavender looked so good with the dash's of metalic "gaffer tape" throwing highlights on each look. On white the flash of gold was so frickin hot.
Other shows to give a look at were Rodarte's californian landscape inspired collection. The most wearable of looks the two sisters have shown. The colour palette was beautiful wooden browns , off whites , granuale creams , lime greens and especialy the gold looks were stunning. My favourite look being a highwaisted printed pants sheer checked blouse look that looked totaly smoking.
Marc Jacobs is renowned for his infuential spell he casts over NY , this season his women was a Studio 54 reveller on her holidays to St Tropez. This gave amazing colours of purple , pink with an all over glam 70's easy chic party clothes. These were looks to have nights to remeber or not as the case may be.
Other shows that were aw inspiring were Reed Krackoff , Jeremy Laing , Victoria Beckham , Rodarte to name just a few.
Last but not least .... Proenza Schouler was my favourite show of NY , the kings of hip young things showed a young, fresh and vibrant collection of Chanel inspired ladylike rebellion. Insane tweed jakets that were in fluro orange over a sequined top made for one journalist to describe the look as " physco tweeds". The codes of feminity was the starting point for the collection , from there they looked at how best to mess around with lady like stample's such as tweed , lace and chiffon. This ment recreating lace with acid , Tweeds in insance colours and layers of chiffon giving disturbed nighties. The look was more polished than that of previous seasons but left the girls looking a whole other level of cool. As Jack McCullough said " the suit is the new rebellion" if that means every cool girl will start to dress like the girls from this show , Im so completly for it.
The Enthusiast.
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